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System Evaluation & Condition Reports
* All Inspections come with a 15 point condition report that covers all areas of your chimney top to bottom.
* We check the structural integrity of your chimney to see if there is any water, earthquake and/or flue fire damage.
* If any major repairs are required a type written estimate will be provided to you within 2-3 business days.
See Chimney Inspections page for more information.
*Prices based on distance and safety conditions
* Depending on what you burn your chimney should be cleaned at least once a year or after every cord of wood.
* If you burn Duraflame or Presto Logs you should have your chimney cleaned twice a year.
* We clean Masonry and Pre-Fab Chimneys from the bottom using flex rods with a wire brush because it is more accurate, faster and safer especially during the rainy winters. In cases where the chimney is extremely dirty we mask off the front of the fireplace and clean from the top the good old fashioned way.
* Tarps and/or runners along with a heavy-duty vacuum are used to ensure the area does not get dirty during the chimney sweep.
* We leave dampers open after sweeping to allow the disturbed soot to escape outside instead of collecting behind the damper. We recommend it stay open for at least 2-3 hours after sweeping. Customer may request their damper be closed.
*Prices based on distance, safety conditions, high pitched roofs and are subject to change based on the severity of soot build up
**Houses with white carpets are subject to price changes
***Fireplaces with stoves and/or heatilators are subject to price changes
****We do not pull and/or reinsert wood stoves that are not properly lined.
Top Damper Installation
* In the event your damper becomes frozen open a top damper can be installed to prevent any cold air from entering your house.
* Top dampers are completely air tight and have a lifetime warranty.
* Pyro-packing replaces missing mortar between the inner flue tiles.
* Missing mortar is a result from water damage.
3rd Stage Creosote Removal
* Unburnt wood residue can quickly turn from regular soot to the flammable and poisonous substance known as creosote.
* Creosote removal is a dirty and smelly procedure that involves chemically treating the creosote with Sodium Hydroxide to dry the sticky Creosote in order to roto-chip it out.
* Depending on the temperature outside and the thickness of the creosote most normal cases can take up to 5 days to remove. If the temperature is cold then the reaction time of the Sodium Hydroxide may take longer. If the creosote is thick then more applications of Sodium Hydroxide may be needed.
* Once the Sodium Hydroxide is applied make sure the house is well ventilated and vacating the house for a couple hours may be necessary because the fumes of the Sodium Hydroxide, upon initial contact, may be unpleasing.
* The number one destroyer of chimneys is water. Bricks and mortar that are not waterproofed act like sponges and soak up water and slowly deteriorate the mortar and cause the brick to spall.
* Waterproofing a chimney creates a semi permeable layer that prevents water from absorbing into the chimney but allows moisture to escape.
Smoke & Drafting Problems
* Many people have experienced smoke and drafting problems. Smoke problems can occur for many different reasons from the Chimney Cap being plugged up to wood smoldering to operator error.
* An inspection can determine the cause of smoke problems.
* Most damper problems occur because of water damage from no Chimney Cap.
* A Damper De-rust is the most common remedy for a damper that is rusting.
* If a damper is beyond a normal preventative maintenance de-rust there are other options available.
Remove & Replace Top Liner
* When you have a fire your flue liners naturally expand because of high heat thermal expansion. Sometimes when this occurs the top flue liner expands too rapidly and it splits. If there is more than one crack then your top liner needs to be removed and replaced with a new one. This procedure needs to be done because 1) creosote can form in between the cracks and 2) like a cracked windshield the liner can fracture more and will eventually cave in and fall behind your damper or on top of your fire.
* Fixing the crown on the top of the chimney prevents water from entering the chimney between the bricks and flue liners before settling behind the firebox and eroding the mortar causing safety problems.
* Depending on the severity of the cracks the crown can be fixed with 100% silicone, high temperature refractory cement or possibly rebuilding the crown altogether.
Diamond Cut & Fill
* Excessive heat in the firebox can cause the lower outer shell to expand too quickly and crack. If the cracks are not tended to, much like a windshield, can grow and further weaken the integrity of the structure.
* Diamond cut and filling is a very dusty job that involves using a diamond blade and cutting out the mortar joints where the cracks are and refilling it with fresh mortar.
Flashing & Counter Flashing Repair
* The flashing is a very vital part for protecting your house and wood work from water damage.
* Flashing repair can range from resealing the flashing to creating new flashing where flashing is now missing.
Throat Void Repair
* Throat voids occur when the throat plate bends and warps creating an opening where potential creosote may form.
* Filling the throat void can range from using only high temperature fire clay to having to use insulation and 1/4" screen with the high temperature fire clay.
* A de-rust and chimney cap is mandatory in all throat void repairs because the original cause of the void is water damage and causes the throat plate to warp because of rust. No warranty will be given if no de-rust and chimney cap (if there isn't one) accompany the repair because the problem will keep recurring.
Prefab Refractory Wall Installation
* If any wall in your pre-fab chimney is broken, we can replace it.
* Most refractory walls can be ordered from the manufacturer.
* In the event a wall can't be ordered then a custom cut wall from a blank wall can be installed.
* Firebox repairs can be as simple as filling in joints where mortar is missing with high temperature fire clay or may need to be torn out and replaced with new fire brick.
Firebox Seam Repointing
* The seams are what hold the corners of your firebox together and keep it from moving and collapsing. Seam separation is caused by water damage. If your chimney does not have a rain cap arrestor water rains in and collects behind the firebox and slowly eats away at the seams.
* The dangers of this are that creosote can accumulate in the cracks and potentially catch fire and lead to the woodwork of your house.
*Seam re-pointing involves filling the separations with high temperature fire clay.
Lower Void Repair
* Tiles inside your chimney are stacked one on top of the other creating the 'flue'. At the very bottom of the stack of tile mortar blocks the possible opening where creosote may enter. If your chimney has no rain cap arrestor water can drip down and wash away the mortar at the last tile creating an unsafe situation.
* Lower void repair involves pyro-packing that void with high temperature refractory cement.
* If the void is larger than normal insulation and metal mesh screening may be necessary to fill the void.
Gas Safety Stop Installation
* NFPA 211 code states that any fireplace that has a working gas wand needs to have a gas safety stop on the damper preventing the damper from closing all the way and allowing the gas a way to escape outside.
* The dangers of the damper being able to close with gas capability is 1) The house can fill up with gas and asphyxiate the residents inside and/or 2) the house can fill up with gas and any spark can ignite the gas causing extensive damage and possible harm to people in the house.
Cable Tie Downs For Freestanding Stove Pipe
* Stove pipes 3 feet and above the roof must have cable tie downs to prevent the pipes from swaying, dislodging and/or toppling over due to wind, earthquakes and/or any personnel on the roof.